Afyonkarahisar, more often known as Afyon for short, has been home to many civilizations, lying as it does at a strategic geographical junction at the center of western Turkey. Whether you are traveling from east to west or north to south, by road or rail, you are almost certain to pass through this city. With a history that can be traced back to 3000 BC, it was ruled in turn by the Hittites, Phrygians, Hellenes, Romans, and Byzantines until its conquest by the Turks in 1200. With such a rich historic heritage, visitors to the city should start at the museum, which has an outstanding collection of Hittite, Phrygian, Roman and Byzantine works of art.
Upon leaving the museum it is time to explore the streets, which offer interesting sights at every turn, such as a pile of kepeneks, the colorful woolen capes worn by shepherds, which also serve as beds or tablecloths when necessary. If you are curious to see how they are made, all you have to do is enter the workshop with a greeting.
The Old Town of Afyon
The old quarter of the town known as Kalealti has many well-preserved examples of old Turkish houses painted in diverse colors, and with doors and windows which are lovely examples of traditional woodwork.
After lunch, you can climb up to the historical castle, perched high on the craggy hill of dark rock that towers over the city. The castle stands on the brink of an ancient volcanic crater, and the view from here is spectacular. You can still see traces of Hittite carving on the walls of the castle, which was used as a stronghold by the Hittite King Mursili II during his Arzava campaign around 1350 BC.
After descending the steep path from the castle, make your way to the city center, where it seems that every other shop is selling either the famous garlic sausage of the area or Turkish Delight with the equally famous clotted cream and other sweetmeats. When I asked what was special about this cream, they explained that it was made from water buffalo milk.
Next to the Ottoman bazaar is the Seljuk period Ulu Mosque built in 1272 and nearby is Imaret Mosque with its elegant fluted minaret built by Gedik Ahmet Pasha in 1472.
Kocatepe
The city played a crucial role in the Turkish War of Independence (1919-1923), a role made more important by its key position as a crossroads. From the hill of Kocatepe near the city, Ataturk launched his Great Offensive on 26 August 1922 and observed the first stages of the battle. The well-known photograph of Ataturk walking along bowed in thought was taken on this hill, and today a statue of Ataturk marks the spot. Trenches left from this battle can still be seen. When I returned to my hotel in the evening, I went to the Turkish Bath which is supplied by a thermal spring. There are numerous thermal springs in Afyon, presumably a relic of the area volcanic past. The next day I visited the town of Ihsaniye, 35 kilometers north of the city, and was amazed to see rock cones and pillars just like those of Cappadocia.
Early Christian communities fleeing Roman persecution took refuge here, as they did in Cappadocia far to the east, carving out homes in the soft volcanic rock. The rock tombs and the church of Ayazini are the most important sights. The following day I visited the Goynus Valley, popularly known as the Phrygian Valley. The Phrygians began to expand their territories in Anatolia from 1200 BC onwards. Their kingdom, whose capital was Gordion west of Ankara, covered the mountainous and forested region between Kutahya and Eskisehir. In the Goynus Valley are rock tombs and open-air temples.
Here a large lion carved in relief still guards the entrance to the burial site known as Yilanli Kaya (Snake Rock). Beyond lies the temple of Mal Kaya, the top two meters of whose walls are still visible above ground, carved in low relief in the form of a pediment. It is thought that the walls descend a further five meters beneath the ground. The temple is astonishingly well preserved, despite being nearly 3000 years old.
Lake Eber
My last trip was to Lake Eber east of Afyon. The lake is fed by the Akarcay River and streams which rise from springs in the Sultandag Mountains. As you approach the lake the first thing you notice is the reed beds and people at work gathering them. Along the shore are picturesque fishermen’s huts roofed by reeds. The inhabitants of all the villages around the lake make their living from either the reeds, which they sell to the local paper factory or from fishing.
A strange feature of this lake is the floating ‘islands’ known as kopak, formed by reed roots which in time become so tightly packed that you can walk on them with perfect safety. Fishermen moor up their rafts to the islands and light fires on which they cook the fish they have caught. I was invited to join them, but preferred to eat in a fish restaurant on solid ground!
So next time your journey takes you to Afyon, instead of driving straight through, stop off for two or three days to see the unusual sights in and around this interesting city.
